Cozy Surfaces, Crumpled Textures and Jacquards Lead Trends at Denim PV

The Fall/Winter 2024-2025 trends curated by Denim PV in Berlin last week reflect the demand for durable, unique and comfortable denim.

Lorenza Martello, Premiere Vision's denim expert, said F/W 24-25 is a season of high impact visuals balanced by versatility and fabrics that can take on various aesthetics, from tailored constructions to more casual and relaxed looks.

A "dramatic spirit" to emerging trends is giving rise to sharper, bolder looks than last season's grungy and dirty washes, she noted.

Dark bases accentuate washings and overdyes for a new take on worn effects. Crackled surfaces reveal bursts of color. A renewed crunchy aesthetic is sharper and more defined. Martello said distressed and wrinkle visuals and micro rip effects imitate the texture of crumpled paper. Dark indigo fabrics with brushing take on a three-dimensional frosted appearance.

Other motifs become abstract and cloudy with diffused effects and acid washes. Dark bases almost disappear, giving way to a "clash of acidic tones," she described.

Adding to this drama are baroque motifs inspired by history. These designs are executed as jacquards or lasered onto dark denim fabrics. Flocking is used to give fabrics a soft, velvety handle. Martello said the technique is used in abstract patterns and large-scale leaf and floral designs.

In general, green is a key color for the season. Plants and vegetation inspire "decadent-looking green tones," she said. The color is accentuated in hemp and linen fabrications.

Diffused metallic sparkles, silver coatings or prints on gray denim offer a new direction for Y2K trends. Meanwhile, "ultra-discreet" gold metallic yarns add a soft glow to lightweight denims.

Adaptable fabrics that are genderless, timeless and durable are also trending, particularly for brands that offer both relaxed and architectural silhouettes. "This winter, [the denim industry responds] to a call for softer, warmer and more high-end texture with versatile uses, ranging from casual [to] constructed," Martello said.

Here, 100 percent cotton fabrics with either a shine or matte aspect are coupled with raw selvedge fabrics that have a rustic handle. Other cotton fabrics are blended with linen or lyocell for elegant, voluminous looks.

Brushed surfaces are one way to achieve the popular cozy look. Premium blends that include wool and cashmere are another. Martello said there's also room for garments that are reinforced with stitching and quilting that provide a feeling of protection.

Denim's approach to nostalgia is evolving for F/W 24-25. Indigos with a blue-green tint nod to the ’70s. She said colors are bright and fresh, maintaining their authentic aesthetic, while hemp adds irregular effects.

Patchwork constructions are made from recycled pieces that retain an aged yellow color. There's also room for denim made with 100 percent pre- and post-consumer recycled denim that gets its powdery blue hue from the original fabrics.

Sustainability factor

"Sustainability is of key importance this season cutting across all collections," Martello said. "We see efforts to rethink a more sustainable approach, including technology that uses less water or less energy. We will also see a search for new blends with various performances and increase alternatives to conventional and oil-based fibers."

Martello noted an increase in organic cotton this season, either blended with other fibers or in 100 percent compositions. She pointed to an uptick in regenerative cotton, "one of the most sustainable options" because it's free of tilling, synthetic or chemical inputs, and supports other crop development while improving soil health.

"These practices restore surface quality, improve water retention and preserve biodiversity," she said.

Water-sipping cotton alternatives such as linen, hemp and kapok are expanding their footprint in denim. While denim still needs alternatives to oil-based stretch fibers, Martello said elasticity can be obtained with recycled or cornstarch-based fibers or by innovating how fabrics are woven.

Sustainable color achieved by lower impact dyes, natural dyes and recycled pigments is another area of focus. The growing number of undyed options is becoming a new classic in collections. "The diversification of fibers allows for a wide range of natural colors in non-dyed options," Martello said. "Specific cotton varieties, grown in pink, brown and green, are now [available] without bleaching or dyeing."

"Designing a garment from A to Z and thinking about the entire product lifecycle now is the necessity to build a collection," she said. "Design can mostly reduce the impact of the garment right from the conception."

Receive Our Daily Newsletter & Special Offers